The HVAC Questions Central Florida Homeowners Have

Why is my air conditioner running but blowing warm air?

The usual causes are a tripped outdoor breaker, a failed capacitor or a clogged filter. A refrigerant leak can do it too. Check the breaker and the filter first, because both take two minutes.

If both look fine, stand by the outdoor unit while the system runs. A still fan with a steady hum usually means the capacitor or fan motor has failed. The capacitor is a small part that helps the motor start, and it is one of the smaller repairs. If the fan spins but the air stays warm, refrigerant or the compressor is the likely problem. Those need a licensed technician with the right gauges.

Why is my air conditioner running all day and never shutting off in the summer?

On a 95-degree Orlando afternoon, a correctly sized system can run for long stretches. That is normal. It is not normal if the house never reaches the set temperature, even after sunset.

Systems here are sized to hold about 75 degrees inside when it is in the low 90s outside. So on hotter days, the system runs nonstop and the house may drift a degree or two. Worry when it also runs all night, the bills jump or the airflow feels weak. Those signs usually point to a dirty filter, a dirty outdoor coil or a slow refrigerant leak.

Why does my air conditioner keep freezing up?

Ice forms when too little warm air crosses the indoor coil. A clogged filter, a blocked return vent or a weak blower are common causes. Low refrigerant from a leak is the other one.

In Florida, check the filter first, because systems here run nearly all year and clog it fast. Closing too many vents starves the coil of air in the same way. If the ice comes back after a fresh filter, the refrigerant or the blower motor is the next suspect. Don't let it keep happening, because each freeze can overflow the drain pan as it melts. A repeat freeze can also send liquid back to the compressor, which is an expensive failure.

How often should I flush my air conditioner drain line with vinegar?

Once a month during the cooling season is a sensible habit in Central Florida. Pour about a cup of white vinegar into the drain access port near the air handler.

The flush matters because Orlando humidity makes your air conditioner pull gallons of water from the air each day. That water carries algae that grows inside the drain pipe. When the pipe clogs, a float switch, a small safety cutoff, should shut the system off. So if yours shut off with a full pan, that switch did its job. Vinegar prevents buildup, but it will not clear a hard clog. For that, a wet-dry vacuum on the outdoor end of the drain usually works.

A tech told me my air conditioner is a little low on freon. Is that OK?

No. Refrigerant does not get used up like fuel. A low charge means a leak somewhere. Topping it off only delays the next service call.

An air conditioner is a sealed system, so the charge should stay the same for its whole life. When it drops, the leak often sits in the indoor coil or at a brazed joint, where two pipes meet. That is why you should ask for the leak to be found before any refrigerant goes in. It matters even more on older R-22 systems, because R-22 has not been made since January 2020. Only reclaimed stock remains, so every refill costs more.

How long should an air conditioner last in Florida?

Most central air conditioning systems in Central Florida last about 10 to 15 years. Heavy use shortens that, because Orlando systems cool for most of the year. Regular maintenance pushes a system toward the longer end.

Compare that with Michigan, where a system might run four months a year. An Orlando system runs most of the year, often around the clock in July and August. Salt air near the coast shortens its life further, though inland Orange and Seminole counties are spared most of that. To see where yours stands, check the data plate on the outdoor unit for its manufacture date.

What size air conditioner do I need for a 2,000 square foot house in Florida?

Square footage alone can't answer it. A 2,000 square foot Orlando home often needs 3 to 4 tons of cooling power. Windows, insulation, shade and ceiling height all move that number.

That is why Florida's energy code, under section R403.7, requires sizing from a Manual J load calculation. That calculation counts the heat entering each room, including afternoon sun through west-facing glass. The old rule of one ton per 500 square feet ignores all of it. So it often puts in a bigger unit than the house needs, which causes the humidity problem in the next question.

Can an air conditioner be too big for my house?

Yes, and in Florida it causes a specific problem. An oversized system cools the air fast and shuts off before it removes moisture. The house reaches 75 degrees but feels damp and clammy.

An air conditioner removes humidity only while it runs long enough for water to drip off the coil. Short on-and-off cycles leave that water in the air, the carpet and the furniture. Over months, that damp can bring musty smells and mold spots near the vents. The oversized unit also costs more upfront, and constant starts wear it out sooner. So when you replace, aim for the right size, not the same size or one size up.

What SEER2 rating is required for a new air conditioner in Florida?

Florida sits in the Department of Energy's Southeast region. Since January 1, 2023, a new split-system air conditioner under 45,000 BTU needs at least 14.3 SEER2. Larger split air conditioners need 13.8 SEER2, and split heat pumps need 14.3 SEER2.

SEER2 is the efficiency rating on a new air conditioner, and a higher number means lower running costs. It replaced the older SEER rating in 2023 with tougher tests, so 14.3 SEER2 is roughly the old 15 SEER. The rule applies by installation date, so a below-minimum unit cannot legally go in here. Going above the minimum pays off, because the savings add up over a long cooling season. Utility rebates usually start at 15.2 SEER2, as the costs section below explains. (DOE standards checked 25 September 2026.)

What does the R-410A phase-out mean if I'm replacing my air conditioner?

New split systems now use lower-impact refrigerants, mostly R-454B or R-32. Units built with R-410A before 2025 can still be installed until existing stock runs out. Your current R-410A system can still be serviced.

The change started when manufacturing of new R-410A split systems ended on January 1, 2025. A 2026 installation cutoff was planned, but the EPA dropped it in a final rule effective July 27, 2026. The new refrigerants are rated mildly flammable, so installers follow extra handling rules. They also cannot mix with R-410A, so a new outdoor unit usually needs a matching indoor coil. (EPA rules checked 25 September 2026.)

Should I replace the air handler when I replace the outdoor unit?

In most cases, yes. The indoor and outdoor units are rated as a matched pair. A new condenser on an old air handler rarely reaches its rated efficiency. The old coil may not suit the new refrigerant either.

That rating comes from an AHRI certificate, an industry record that lists both units tested together. Duke Energy and OUC rebates ask for that matched certificate too. Age is the other reason, because an old air handler in a Florida garage or closet carries years of moisture and corrosion. Keeping it only makes sense when it is newer and suits the new unit. Either way, ask the installer to show you the AHRI match for your quote.

Should I get a heat pump or an air conditioner in Florida?

For most Central Florida homes, a heat pump makes sense. It cools like a standard air conditioner in summer, then reverses to heat the house in winter. Many Orlando homes already have one.

To tell which you have, check the outdoor unit's model label, because the two look almost identical. An Emergency Heat setting on your thermostat also points to a heat pump. A cooling-only system heats with electric strips inside the air handler instead. Strips work, but they draw far more power for the same warmth. With mild winters here, a heat pump covers nearly every cold morning on its own. That is why our typical installs are 1 to 5 ton split-system heat pumps.

What's the difference between a heat pump and heat strips?

A heat pump moves heat from the outdoor air into the house. Heat strips create heat from electricity, like a toaster. The heat pump uses much less power to deliver the same warmth.

Most Florida heat pumps still include strips as a backup. They switch on during defrost, on the coldest mornings, and when you raise the thermostat several degrees at once. That last habit is worth breaking, because raising the setting two degrees at a time keeps the strips off. The power gap is also why Duke Energy Florida lists its largest HVAC rebate for swapping strip heat for a heat pump. The costs section explains how utility rebates work.

Why does my heat pump blow cool air in heat mode?

Heat pump air feels cooler than furnace air, often around 90 degrees at the vent instead of 120. That is normal. Cold air on a chilly morning usually means a defrost cycle.

In defrost, the heat pump briefly runs in cooling mode to melt frost off the outdoor coil. You may see steam rising from the outdoor unit and hear a whoosh. That lasts a few minutes and is normal. If cold air continues past about 15 minutes, check that the thermostat is set to Heat. If it is, a stuck reversing valve or a failed defrost board is the next suspect. Those are the parts that switch the system between heating and cooling.

What is emergency heat on my thermostat, and when should I use it?

Emergency heat turns off the heat pump and runs only the electric strips. Use it only if the outdoor unit has failed or is iced solid. Running it by choice raises the electric bill fast.

Some thermostats label it Emergency Heat, and others say EM Heat. Either way, it is a stopgap for a failed heat pump. In Orlando, that failure in January is uncomfortable but rarely dangerous, so the strips can keep the house warm until the repair. A related light, Aux Heat, is worth watching too. If it often comes on by itself, the heat pump may be struggling. A diagnostic before the next cold snap can catch the problem early.

Is a ductless mini-split good for a Florida garage or room addition?

Yes. A mini-split is often the best way to cool a space the central system cannot reach. Garages, converted porches, additions and bonus rooms over a garage are the usual candidates.

Tying a new room into the main system often overloads the existing equipment. A mini-split avoids that by giving the room its own outdoor unit and its own controls. In a Florida garage, though, insulation matters as much as the unit. An uninsulated garage door lets in heat the system will fight all afternoon. That is also why sizing comes from a load calculation, not a guess from the room size.

Is a mini-split better than a window unit?

For a room you use daily, usually yes. A mini-split runs quieter, dehumidifies better and keeps the window free. A window unit costs far less upfront, so it suits occasional or short-term use.

The better comfort comes from inverter compressors, which slow down instead of switching on and off. That steady running pulls more moisture out of Florida air. The noisy part also sits outside, and many models heat as well. A window unit wins on simplicity, because it needs no permit and plugs into a wall outlet. A mini-split is permanent work with electrical and refrigerant connections, so it needs a licensed installer and usually a permit.

Can I install a DIY mini-split kit myself in Florida?

You can, under a Florida owner-builder permit for your own home. You then carry the code, inspection and warranty responsibility yourself. Check the kit's warranty terms first, because some limit coverage without a licensed installer.

Pre-charged DIY kits avoid handling refrigerant, which normally requires EPA 608 certification. The rest of the job still has to meet code, though. That includes a disconnect, or shutoff switch, near the outdoor unit and a mount rated for Florida wind. If the inspection fails, the corrections fall on you. So if you want a second opinion on a DIY install, book a diagnostic visit before the inspector comes out.

Why does my mini-split smell musty or drip water inside?

The indoor head has its own coil, drain and blower wheel. In Florida humidity, mold and slime can build on all three. A clogged drain or a head mounted off level causes most indoor drips.

To keep it fresh, rinse the washable filters in the head every two to four weeks in summer. If a musty smell survives clean filters, the buildup is usually on the blower wheel. That needs a proper cleaning, with the head covered and bagged. Drips are a separate problem, and they often start when the drain line sags or the head tilts backward. The good news is that both are fixable without replacing the unit.

What humidity should my house be in Florida?

Aim for 40 to 50 percent indoors, and keep it under 60 percent. The EPA puts 60 percent as the ceiling for limiting mold growth. Above that, Florida homes start to smell musty.

That takes work here, because Orlando's outdoor humidity averages close to 90 percent before dawn. Your air conditioner is the main thing drying the air inside. To see how well it is doing, use a digital hygrometer, a small humidity gauge sold at hardware stores. If it reads above 60 percent with the air conditioner running, look for a sizing, airflow or thermostat problem.

Should my thermostat fan be set to Auto or On in Florida?

Auto. On Auto, the fan stops when cooling stops, and water drips off the coil into the drain. On keeps air moving over the wet coil and blows that moisture back into the house.

That difference can move indoor humidity by several points in an Orlando summer. On also runs the blower motor around the clock, which adds wear and electric cost. The one time to use On is to thaw a frozen coil, as the first section explains. Some newer thermostats also offer a dehumidify mode or a fan delay. Those are fine, because they work on the same idea as Auto.

What temperature should I set my air conditioner to in the Florida summer?

The U.S. Department of Energy suggests 78 degrees when you are home and awake. Set it as warm as feels comfortable, because each degree higher trims the cooling bill.

Setting it warmer while you are out helps too, but big swings cost more than people expect here. Letting the house climb to 85 degrees means hours of hard running in the late afternoon heat. It also lets humidity build in walls and furniture. So a rise of four to seven degrees while you are out works better. (DOE guidance checked 25 September 2026.)

Should I turn my air conditioner off when I go on vacation?

No. Set it to around 80 or 82 degrees instead. In a closed Florida house, humidity can reach mold-friendly levels within days without the air conditioner running.

That happens because the air conditioner is the main dehumidifier in most Orlando homes. Switched off in August, a sealed house can climb well past 85 degrees and 60 percent humidity. That is enough to start mold on walls, closets and furniture. So before you leave, fit a fresh filter and pour vinegar into the drain line. If you have a smart thermostat, you can also check the house from your phone while you are away.

Is a smart thermostat worth it in Florida?

For most households, yes, mainly for control rather than big savings. You can change the setting remotely and watch indoor humidity. Many also send an alert if the house overheats while you are away.

The savings come from your habits, so a smart thermostat pays off only if you use the schedule. Some models, like Ecobee, also show indoor humidity, which is useful in Central Florida. Before you buy, check your wiring, because most need a common wire, called a C-wire, for steady power. Older systems sometimes lack one, so it is worth asking about when you replace your air conditioner. We have paired an Ecobee with a new air conditioner and air handler on past installs.

Why are air conditioning replacement quotes in Orlando so different?

Quotes differ on equipment tier, sizing, what is included, and whether the permit is in the price. Two quotes for "a 3-ton system" can describe very different jobs. Compare them line by line, not by the bottom number.

For example, one quote may include a new air handler, drain line, pad, thermostat and permit. Another may reuse the old air handler and leave the permit off. Efficiency moves the price too, since a 16 SEER2 system costs more than a 14.3 SEER2 unit. To compare fairly, ask every contractor for model numbers and the AHRI match certificate. With those in hand, you can line up quotes on equal terms.

What should an air conditioning replacement quote include?

Model numbers for both units, the AHRI match number, tonnage and SEER2 rating. It should also list the permit, the labor warranty, and what happens to the old equipment. Anything missing is a question to ask before signing.

Florida law adds one more item to that list. Any residential contract over $2,500 must include a notice about the Florida Homeowners' Construction Recovery Fund. Beyond the legal minimum, a good quote states whether a load calculation was done and which refrigerant the system uses. Jormechanical Air estimates arrive by email or text, so you can check each item before you sign.

Why is the price in an air conditioning ad so much lower than my quote?

Many ads show the price of the unit, not the installed system. That number leaves out labor, the matched indoor coil and the refrigerant lines. The pad, electrical parts and permit are missing too.

A full replacement is mostly labor, materials and code compliance, so the equipment price alone tells you little. That is why our estimates cover the complete installed system, and you see that price before any work begins. Here is what those complete installs cost. Standard high-efficiency systems run $10,000 to $25,000, depending on size (1 to 5 tons). A budget economy line runs $6,000 to $8,000. It is an entry-level system at the minimum efficiency rating, so it costs more to run each month. If the upfront cost is a stretch, financing is available through Wisetack, subject to credit approval. Whoever you call, ask exactly what their installed price includes.

Is there still a federal tax credit for a new air conditioner or heat pump in 2026?

No. The federal 25C Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit ended for equipment placed in service after December 31, 2025. A system installed in 2026 does not qualify.

The credit was cut by the federal budget law signed on July 4, 2025. Only systems installed and running by the end of 2025 could still be claimed, on 2025 taxes. The federally funded state rebates, called HOMES and HEEHRA, have not opened in Florida either. The Florida Energy Saver Program lists them as coming in the future, with pre-registration only. That leaves utility rebates, covered in the next question, as the main incentive for now. (IRS and FDACS pages checked 25 September 2026.)

Are there Duke Energy or OUC rebates for a new air conditioner or heat pump?

Both utilities have listed rebates on qualifying high-efficiency systems, usually starting around 15.2 SEER2. Amounts and rules change during the year, so check your utility's rebate page before you buy.

Some rebates need an energy check before work begins, and most need a permitted job and the system's AHRI certificate. So when you get your estimate, ask for the efficiency rating and the AHRI match number, because the application usually asks for both. (Utility pages checked 25 September 2026. Rules change, so confirm with your utility before you buy.)

What's the difference between the manufacturer warranty and the labor warranty?

The manufacturer warranty covers parts that fail, such as a compressor or coil. The labor warranty covers the installer's time to replace them. They come from different companies and run for different lengths of time.

Manufacturer parts warranties vary by brand and line, and many require online registration soon after the install. Miss that window, and some brands drop to a shorter base term. Labor coverage is different, because it comes from the contractor. Jormechanical Air covers labor for one year on installations and 90 days on repairs. Whichever warranty you use, keep the install date, model numbers and serial numbers together for any future claim.

Do you offer PACE financing?

Yes. We're a Florida PACE Program partner. PACE financing lets eligible homeowners pay for qualifying energy-efficient upgrades, like a new high-efficiency AC system, over time through their property tax bill. Eligibility depends on your property and county, so contact us and we'll help you check if you qualify.

How often should I change my air conditioner filter in Florida?

Check a standard 1-inch filter monthly, and change it every one to two months in summer. Homes with pets, allergies or construction dust may need a monthly change. Thicker 4-inch media filters last several months.

The monthly check matters because Florida systems run far more hours than the filter label assumes. A clogged filter starves the coil of air, which leads to freezing and higher bills. The filter's rating, called MERV, matters too, because very high MERV filters can choke airflow on some older systems. That is why MERV 8 to 11 suits most homes. To make the next check quick, write the change date on the filter frame.

How often should I have my air conditioner serviced in Florida?

Twice a year suits most Central Florida homes, because systems here run most of the year. Once before summer and once in the fall is a common pattern.

Each visit covers the outdoor coil, drain line, electrical parts, refrigerant pressures and airflow. That way, weak capacitors and slow leaks get caught before they fail in July. Booking the spring visit before the first hot week makes it easier to get the time you want.

How do I get my air conditioner ready for a hurricane?

Before the storm, check that the outdoor unit is strapped to its pad. Clear loose items from around it. Switch the air conditioner off at the breaker once the power starts flickering.

Those straps, called tie-downs, are how the Florida Mechanical Code makes outdoor units resist wind. A tarp over the unit adds nothing and can trap moisture, so skip it. Inside, cool the house a few degrees lower before landfall, so it stays comfortable longer in an outage. Last, photograph the unit and its data plate in case you need to file an insurance claim. (Code checked 25 September 2026.)

How do I restart my air conditioner after a power outage?

Leave the thermostat off when the power returns. Wait about 30 minutes before switching the air conditioner back on. That protects the compressor from the surges that often follow a restored grid.

After a storm, use that wait to walk around the outdoor unit. Look for debris, bent fins, a leaning pad or water pooled around the base. If everything looks normal, switch the breaker on, then set the thermostat to Cool. If the unit hums without starting, switch it off again. That hum often means a surge took out the capacitor, which is a common and simple repair.

My outdoor air conditioner got flooded. Is it safe to turn on?

No. Leave the breaker off and have the unit inspected before any power reaches it. Floodwater can damage the electrical parts and fan motor, even after the unit looks dry.

The damage comes from the mud and debris that floodwater carries into the controls and the coil. So powering a wet unit risks an electrical short and a ruined compressor. While you wait for the inspection, photograph the waterline for your insurer. If the unit needs replacing, the new one may have to sit higher than the old one. That is because the Florida code requires equipment in flood zones to sit at or above the flood level.

How do I check if an air conditioning contractor is licensed in Florida?

Search the contractor's name or license number at myfloridalicense.com, under Verify a License. The record shows the license class, status, expiry date and any discipline. A county business tax receipt is not a license.

The license class tells you the most. A number starting with CAC means a state-certified air conditioning contractor, who can work anywhere in Florida. Registered contractors, by contrast, hold a local license that is valid only where it was issued. Class B covers systems up to 25 tons of cooling, which is far above any home. The check matters most after hurricanes, when unlicensed crews arrive fast. Contracting without a license during a declared state of emergency is a felony in Florida.

Do I need a permit to replace my air conditioner in Orange County?

Yes. Orange County requires a mechanical permit for every air conditioning change-out, even for the same size and type. The City of Orlando, Seminole County and Volusia County also require mechanical permits for replacements.

The licensed contractor normally applies for the permit, so you rarely handle it yourself. In unincorporated Orange County, that application goes through the county's Fast Track portal. Change-outs there can also get a remote final inspection. Inside Orlando city limits, the city issues its own mechanical permit instead. The rules change soon, because the 9th Edition Florida Building Code takes effect December 31, 2026. Permits after that date follow the new code. (County and city permit pages checked 25 September 2026.)

What does the inspector check on a new air conditioning install?

The inspector checks that the equipment matches the permit and meets the Florida Building Code. That covers the electrical disconnect, wind tie-downs, the condensate drain, clearances and refrigerant line insulation.

Outdoor units must also sit on a level pad at least three inches above the ground. The inspector may ask for the load calculation that sized the system, too. These checks protect you later. A skipped permit or failed final inspection often surfaces when you sell or file an insurance claim. That is why we count an install as done only once it passes this inspection. We build each system to the code of its county or city.

What is the Florida Homeowners' Construction Recovery Fund?

It is a state fund that can repay homeowners harmed by a licensed contractor's misconduct. Taking a deposit and never finishing is one example. It covers air conditioning contractors, but never unlicensed ones.

That is why Florida law requires the fund's notice in every residential contract over $2,500. Air conditioning contractors fall under Division II, which the fund has covered since July 2016. Payouts are capped, and you claim them through the Construction Industry Licensing Board. An unlicensed contractor gives you none of this protection. So check the license number before any deposit changes hands.

What should I ask an air conditioning contractor before I hire them?

Ask who will do the installation, whether they pull the permit, and whether they run a load calculation. Also ask them to list model numbers, the AHRI match and the labor warranty on the quote.

The first question matters most, because many companies send a salesperson to quote and a different crew to install. At Jormechanical Air, your estimate comes from a home visit by our HVAC technicians, not from a salesperson. Next, ask how the old refrigerant is handled. EPA rules require it to be captured, not released into the air. Finally, ask how your floors are protected. Our answer is tarps, laid down before any equipment enters the house.

Is it better to hire a small local HVAC company or a big one?

It depends on what you value most. Large companies offer bigger crews and after-hours dispatch. A small local company offers one office that quotes, installs and comes back if something needs attention.

Jormechanical Air is the second kind. The trade-off is plain: there is no after-hours line, and the office closes on Sundays. What you gain is the same company from the first call to the final cleanup, and the same office to call if a warranty question comes up. Our Google reviews describe that in homeowners' own words.